Sulphites: the usual suspect, and mostly innocent

If you have searched this before, you have met the sulphite theory. It is the most common answer and the most oversold one. Sulphur dioxide is added in the cellar as a preservative and it is in almost every wine on earth, including the ones sold as natural, which carry it from fermentation whether anyone adds it or not.

Part of why the myth is so strong in English is a labelling rule. American bottles have carried a contains sulfites warning since the late 1980s, and European labels say the same thing in every language. Nothing similar appears on dried apricots, fruit juice, mustard or cured meat, which often carry more sulphites than wine does. A warning on one product and silence on the others is how a chemical becomes a villain.

Genuine sulphite intolerance exists and it matters, but it is uncommon and it mostly affects people with asthma. If you are not asthmatic and you can eat a bag of dried apricots without trouble, sulphites are unlikely to be your problem. We have met people who were certain they were allergic, drank a low-sulphite natural wine, and woke up with the same headache.

Histamines, tannins and alcohol: the three that actually do it

The real causes are probably three, and they usually work together.

The first is histamine, which forms during fermentation and ageing and sits highest in aged reds. Histamine dilates blood vessels, and in people who are sensitive that is enough to start a headache. Some people are short of the enzyme that clears it, called DAO, and for them a single glass of a serious red can be the whole story.

The second is tannin. Tannin does not cause headaches directly, but in some people it triggers a release of serotonin, which can set off a migraine. This is why Barolo, Brunello and other tannic reds come up so often in these conversations, and why the same person can drink a light red all evening without trouble.

The third is the one nobody wants to hear: alcohol. It dehydrates, it dilates blood vessels, and its by-product acetaldehyde is genuinely toxic while your body works through it. A wine at 15% delivers noticeably more of it per glass than one at 12%, which is worth knowing when you are choosing between two bottles at the same price.

Histamines, tannins and alcohol: the three that actually do it — Wine and headaches: what is actually causing it, and how to drink around it

Is red worse than white, and what else is in play

Usually, yes. Red tends to carry more histamine, more tannin and often more alcohol, so statistically it is the main suspect. But oxidative whites, orange wines and skin-contact wines can reach histamine levels comparable to reds. It is the way the wine was made, not the colour in the glass, that decides.

Quality matters too, and this is the part that gets skipped. A wine made in a hurry can carry more fermentation residue, more acetaldehyde, more of everything you would rather not drink. This is not an argument for spending a fortune. It is an argument for the difference between a wine made carefully and one made fast, which is visible well below the expensive shelf.

If you are buying Italian wine from outside Italy, this is where the denomination system earns its keep. DOC and DOCG do not certify that a wine is delicious, and plenty of good wine sits outside them, but they do impose yield limits, minimum ageing and controls that make the fast, careless version harder to produce. As a filter against the bottom end, the pyramid is more useful than its reputation suggests.

Drinking wine without paying for it the next morning

Drink water. This is not grandmother advice, it is physiology: alcohol dehydrates and dehydration is one of the main headache mechanisms. A glass of water alongside each glass of wine does not spoil the evening, and it keeps your palate fresher for what you are actually drinking.

Eat something substantial. Not crisps, not crackers. Real food with protein and fat, which slows alcohol absorption and helps you handle histamine as well. Aged cheese, cured meat, bread. The Italian habit of never drinking without something on the table is not only about pleasure.

Choose with your own history in mind. If you know you are sensitive, go for lower alcohol and less ageing: a young Barbera, a Valpolicella that is not Amarone, a Vermentino. Save the aged Nebbiolo for a night when you have somewhere to be late the next morning.

And keep a note for a few weeks. Which wine, how much, with what food, how you felt. A pattern usually appears faster than you expect, and it is almost always more specific than red or white.

Wine and headaches: what is actually causing it, and how to drink around it

Domande frequenti

Does organic or natural wine cause fewer headaches?

Not necessarily. Organic wine often has less added sulphur, but that leaves histamine and alcohol exactly where they were. Some people do feel better on it, though it is hard to separate the wine from everything else that changes when someone starts buying differently.

Why does one glass do it to me?

Most likely histamine sensitivity, especially if it repeats with aged reds, or a migraine predisposition that tannin can trigger. Drinking on an empty stomach makes both worse, and one glass on an empty stomach is not really one glass.

Is red wine always worse than white?

Generally yes, because of tannin, histamine and usually higher alcohol. There are exceptions: oxidative whites and orange wines can sit close to reds on histamine. Style beats colour.

Are sulphites actually bad for you?

For most people, no. They are a real problem for some asthmatics. For everyone else the amount in a glass of wine is comparable to what is in plenty of ordinary food that carries no warning at all.

Can I tell in advance whether a wine will be a problem?

There is no reliable test, but a diary works. Note the wine, the quantity, what you ate and how you felt. A pattern usually emerges, and it tends to point at a style and an alcohol level rather than at a grape.